Here is another post showcasing our love of independent pattern companies. You can see the other posts by clicking here.
I made a super fun Sewaholic Minoru right before Pattern Review Weekend San Francisco. I knew it would be cold up there and wanted a great jacket to wear. The jacket was a huge hit! I got so many nice comments on it plus it was wonderfully comfortable and perfect for my trip. (Sorry for the blurry pics…I am getting a new camera soon!)
I also used fabrics you wouldn’t normally think of using for a jacket! I used a quilting cotton! What? Yes! A quilting cotton. I wanted it to be really warm so I underlined it with some polar fleece. I cut out all the jacket pieces out of both the quilting cotton and some fleece (except the cuffs…those were way too thick to work with when the fleece was included) and then serged around all the edges of all the pieces before even beginning any sewing.
The quilting cotton is a deep purple with hot pink lightning type print all over it. I used hot pink Coats and Clark zippers for the pockets, a custom double ended 30″ zipper for the front (from here, color hot pink, shortened to 30″), and a matching molded plastic zipper for the hood pocket. All in hot pink, naturally. I love big molded plastic zippers with large teeth on casual jackets. For the top stitching I used Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP (my favorite!!) in neon pink and I used a triple straight stitch to make the stitching show up well. The first line of topstitching was done using my favorite trick with the blind hem foot. The blade goes in the ditch and I moved the needle a few places to the side so it would stitch just on the other side of the ditch. You can see a recap of this technique on this post. Then I switched feet to a 1/4″ seam foot sometimes called a quilting foot. I ran the edge of this foot carefully along the edge of my first row of topstitching. This made the second line exactly 1/4″ from the last line. It makes for very professional looking topstitching!
When sewing, I graded the fleece parts of the seams to next to nothing since the fleece wouldn’t fray…this kept the seams from being too bulky. In addition, I did double topstitching around all the major seams…this also held down the seams. I also love pockets on coats….especially zippered pockets for my phone and money! I added some zippered welt pockets for my belongings on the front, and some in seam pockets on the side to keep my hands warm.
I made this in a straight size 0, the only change I made was to sew the parts from the underarm to the end of the sleeve at a 3/8″ instead of 5/8″ because when I first basted it to check fit, the arms felt a little snug. I also shortened the sleeves by 1/2″. I didn’t muslin so I just chopped off from the end when the time came. The amount was so small that it didn’t cause any problems with the cuff. Other changes I made? I lined the hood, which is a common change with this pattern, and I added a drawstring! I hate when my ears and head get cold and your hood won’t stay on so I made sure to make a drawstring so I could pull this baby nice and tight around my head! See for yourself!
How about the classic Minoru photo? I can’t leave that out!
Think I look ridiculous? I do! But you know what? I wore it with the zipper all the way up and hood pulled tight around my head more than once when I was wandering around San Francisco that weekend. And boy was I glad I had my nice cozy jacket.
For the lining I used a fun purple and pink plaid silky polyester fabric.
People who are familiar with the Minoru pattern may notice that my zipper goes all the way down the front. I did this on purpose. The pattern calls for a 28 inch zipper and I measured the front pieces because I knew I did not want a gap and purposely had my zipper cut to 30″. The reason I do not need that gap at the bottom was because I bought a double ended zipper. This means I can zip from the bottom or the top. That way when I sit down, I can unzip from the bottom a bit to give room for sitting. I believe the gap at the bottom of the jacket normally is to provide that room…I just provided it differently—-by way of zipper.
A couple more pictures….
What do you think? I cannot tell you how much I love this jacket. It fits well, looks so fun, and is very warm! This is what I love about sewing. You would never find something like this in stores…I can make whatever I want and make it as outrageous as I want. And I do. I just did.
We have tons more independent patterns (other than our own!)..and we are sewing them up! I finished a pair of Sewaholic Thurlow’s for Indie Pattern Month. I’ll do a post on them soon! What are your favorite indie patterns?
You can check out the pattern review for this pattern by clicking here.