Feb 112014
 

Lolita Patterns | Back Stay Tutorial

A back stay serves the purpose of lending stability to the back of a coat, right at the upper back. It’ll also help keep the shape of your coat while you wear it and while it’s hanging on a coat hanger. You will want to add a back stay even if you’re underlining your coat.

Materials needed

Coat pattern pieces

Firmly woven sew-in interfacing, though you can also use a quilting cotton or muslin

Tracing paper or something equally suitable

Draft the back stay

Since the Spearmint coat has a side back panel, you will want to overlap your pieces before you start creating your back stay pattern piece.

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Make a mark 7-8″ down from the neck along the back seam.

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Make another mark 3″ down from the armhole.

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Connect your two mark with a gently sloping curve.

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Trace your back stay pattern.

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Since the back is seamed, you want to cut off the seam allowance and mark your pattern to be cut on the fold.

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Cut out your back stay in a suitable fabric/interfacing. Use pinking shears, pink the bottom curved edge so you don’t have a hard edge along the back.

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Attach the back stay

Stitch up your back fashion pieces, right sides together. Press seams open.

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Place your back stay on the wrong side of the back seamed pieces. Smooth out your back stay and machine baste around the side, armhole, shoulders and neck, leaving bottom curve free. You can also use glue and glue baste your back stay in just don’t glue the bottom edge. Let it dry and continue with construction.

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Dec 182013
 

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Have you ever had a hard time setting in a sleeve? You get puckers no matter what you do? I’m going to show you how to ease your sleeve head before you even set it into your sleeve, giving you more control and a smoother fit, even on hard to ease fabrics.

Materials

Tie interfacing- Take your pic of any of the materials below to ease your sleeve head. Just make sure you match the weight of your fabric to the material you want to use to ease. All are cut on the bias.

  • Go to a thrift or vintage shop and get an old tie.
  • Ask your brother/husband/boyfriend for an old tie.
  • You can also use self fabric
  • Bias strip of lambswool
  • 100 weight polar fleece
  • Armo Rite (aka tie interfacing) or Armo Weft
  • Bias strip of linen
  • Weft interfacing
  • Bias cut lightweight gabardine (100% wool)

The sleeves you’re inserting

The coat/jacket you’re making

Instructions

First, I’m going to show you how easy it is to pull the interfacing out of an old tie. There will be a running stitch down the middle of the tie interfacing. Pull that out and your interfacing will be free to use. You’ll get several strips out of one tie so keep the left overs for your next jacket or coat project!

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing  Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing    

Cut two pieces that measure 1″ by 12″.

Starting at the first easing marking, (or seam if using a two-piece sleeve) place your bias strip down on the wrong side and stitch. There is no need to back stitch.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Start to pull your bias strip as you sew with a long stitch just inside your stitching line.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Your bias strip will get narrower. This is exactly what should happen.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

The strip will gather your sleeve head once you’re done. You can now steam press your sleeve head with the heat/steam necessary for your fabric. Only press the seam allowances. Now you should have a slight lift in the sleeve head that will allow you to insert the sleeve into the armhole with ease.

This is what my zebra print sateen coat looks like mid construction. I used a bias cut strip of linen in my coat.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

From this side of the sleeve, you can see how the bias strip will plump up the sleeve head.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Insert your sleeve and flip over to see your smooth results!

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Enjoy!

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