We’re about halfway done! How does it feel? I hope you’re all having as much fun as I am. As most of you know, it’s my first time running one of Lolita’s sew-alongs. I’d love to hear from you. Feel free to chime in down in the comments.
On we go to attach the skirt pieces and begin the process of attaching the skirt to the bodice.
If you missed a step or want to review any of the sew-along posts, you can find them all on the Sugar Plum Sew-Along page.
Skirt and pockets
Sew side front skirt to center front skirt (13 to 15) and side back to center back (14 to 16). You can topstitch your skirt panels either with a straight stitch or a stretch stitch. The stretch of the fabric won’t be affected by your topstitching. You can choose thread that matches or contrasts.
Next, sew your pockets to the side front of your skirt with right sides together at 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat on the side back of the skirt. In the pictures, there is a white pocket lining. You can definitely do that, too. Attach the pocket linings to the front skirt pieces so they don’t show when wearing your Sugar Plum.
Sew down side seams, around your pockets and down the rest of the side seam. It doesn’t matter which direction you go in. Just make sure you stitch both sides of your skirt in the same direction.
If you’re making the skirt with negative ease, you will want to leave off the pockets as they will gape. However, if you’re adding more wearing ease to your dress, your pockets will lay flat just fine.
Waistband and (optional) bias binding
Sew back of your waistband to the front waistband at the side seams for both the front and facing of the waistband. (Different fabric in these pictures, don’t be alarmed!)
Take your bias binding that you’ve purchased or made at home and attach it to your waist band a little beyond 3/8″ from the top and bottom raw edges. When you stitch your waistband to the bodice and the skirt, your binding will be flush against the rest of your dress in a seamless fashion.
Now you’re ready to attach your waistband to your skirt. Match up the bottom of the band to the top of the skirt, lining up the seams. When I used a smaller size for my waistband, it still fit the skirt at one size up but just a little bit stretched. If you’re worried about the fabric bubbling you can baste it in place. At this point, you can also baste in your zipper to test the fit. Once you’re happy with the fit, take out the zipper and return to the waistband step by pressing your seams toward the waistband. Press your waistband up.
Attach skirt to bodice
Sew right back bodice and right front bodice to the waistband. Make sure the bottom flounces are out of the way when doing this step.
Backstitch at center front to secure stitching. Repeat for left back and front bodice. Make sure you don’t catch the lining or the shield. The image below shows the backstitched bodice. (different fabric again- these are of View B without the flounces)
Fold bodice lining pieces over. Right sides of lining pieces should be facing you. Sew bodice piece with shield to the waistband facing, sandwiching it between the bodice fabric and the waistband facing. Stitch to the center front and backstitch to secure it.
Inside of dress, with waistband facing pressed down.
Tip: To make sure your shield will lay flat, you can flip the dress over and lay the pieces straight, pinch or pin, flip it over again and stitch in place.
The stitched bodice (View A) from the right side. Lower flounces are left free.
Inside lining and the stitched shield.
From the outside of View A with flounces.
We’re done for the day! Your bodice is attached and we’ll be ready to insert the zipper.