Oct 272013

It’s time to get started sewing!

We’ve got a couple of things to set up and we’ll be ready to start putting the bodice together.

Want to catch up?  The rest of the sew-along posts can be found at the Sugar Plum Sew-Along page!

Interfacing the bodice, lining and front shield

Using lots of steam and a pressing cloth, apply interfacing to the wrong sides of the neck edges  and the back seam (to stabilize for the zipper) of the bodice and lining. Turn your bodice and lining pieces over to the right side and press the interfacing again. This will help secure the strips of interfacing.

Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the front shield. Press again from the right side.

You can also stay-stitch the neckline instead of interfacing it.


Stitching up darts

If you haven’t already, mark the darts on your back bodice and back lining by tracing the pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric with a tracing wheel and tracing paper. You can either baste the pleats on the front pieces or you can make them into darts as well. Either way, you’ll also want to mark the pleats/front bust darts onto the wrong side of you pieces and stitch them in place.

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Making button loops

Fold the button loop piece in half lengthwise and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. The allowance, when turned, will fill up the tube you’re creating and give you really nice loops.


To turn your tube, take a threaded sewing needle, tie a knot and secure the thread at one end of your tube. Allow the eye of the needle to go into the tube and pull it out the other end. Gently, pull the needle and wiggle the fabric around a bit so that your tube inverts on itself. I find pulling on the seam allowance a little helps feed it through.


Cut your tube into six 1.75″ pieces. Set aside for now.


Optional bias tape for the waistband

If you’d like to add bias tape to your waistband like Amity did on her pink Sugar Plum, you can either make your own bias tape out of the same fabric you’re using for your bodice or out of a contrasting material.  We’ll apply it to the waistband once we put those pieces together in a later step.

We’re done for today. I skipped doing the rolled hem on the flounces but, don’t worry, we’ll get to them next time.

Still need to grab your Sugar Plum for the sew-along?  It is available here in the shop!

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  7 Responses to “Sugar Plum Sew-Along #3: Interfacing, darts, button loops and waistband bias tape”

  1. Ready to sew. Been up since 6 am. Cleaned my sewing machines, changed needles, prepared fabric that I cut yesterday and re-rew-Viewed your tutorial on darts. I love your method. I will try not to call it a procedure. Lol habit. I do have a question though. Darts for t h e front.? Of course i had to do a FBA. I was going froom the point of bust apex and wanted it about 2 inches below, then I thought I shoud ask your method. Sorry if you already addressed this. Also just a note, i made the (oops my wonderful boyfriend made it for me), pattern hanger from your tutorial, oh my gosh, I absoutly love it. Thank you so much. He is going to make me 3 more today. We used 1/8 inch elastic fir the part that attaches to the hanger and that works great. He will explain later.

    Thank you…Happy sewing

    • Hi Virginia,
      I’m so glad the pattern hanger is working for you. Yay. Could you explain your darts question a bit more to me? Are you asking how to make them into darts? If so, just fold your fabric as if you were going to create the pleat but stitch it up to 2″ below the apex, just like you said. Does that help?

      • Amity you so answered my question on the front darts. I have another question. on the pink and black sugar plum you made, how did you finish the flounces in black? Was it zig-zagged in black thread? The top to my sugar plum is an off white and the skirt is black and I am considering black around the flounces, but not sure how it would look and not sure if I should zig zag it. I do not have a Serger YET!!! Thank you so much for the sew a long, your time with questions, your tutorials. Thank you!!! Oh and the pattern…

        • Hey, Leila here. You’re right. Amity used black thread on the pink flounces. Black thread on your white flounces would look so amazing! I’ll be showing you how to do the flounces finishing with a zig zag stitch so no serger needed! I’m so glad you’re enjoying the sew-along.

          • I totally agree!! Make sure you practice on some extras to make sure you like the look of the black thread with a zig zag before choosing. When I did mine, I did a sample flounce for each color of thread to see what I liked best. Testing with the thread and fabric you want to use is the best way to make sure it works the way you imagine!

  2. Fell in love with your pattern as soon as I saw it. Have it cut out and ready to go. But I’m using silk chiffon for the top. It’s my first time working with it and everything takes about four times longer than usual. I’m sure it will be worth it in the end! Only got my interfacing ironed on this evening and the darts marked. Too late now to start sewing. No mistakes allowed on the chiffon! LOL !!

    • That’s going to be lovely! I can’t wait to see it. Best to start back up when you’re fresh.

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