Believe it or not, we’re closing in on the end of our sew-along. The longest part about this coat is choosing the perfect fabric and lining, and then doing any alterations and cutting. You just have to commit to something and run with it! There’s always more fabric. Always! And once you know how fast this coat sews up, you might not mind spending more time on the pre-sewing steps.
If you’re just starting to follow the sew-along, feel free to visit the Lolita shop– it’s open whenever you need it! There you can get a PDF version, a paper copy and you can also pick up hair canvas for the flounce collar at a very reasonable price!
As we go along, upload your progress to one of our social media sites whether you prefer Flickr, tag us onFacebook or use #lolitapatterns on Twitter and Instagram so it’ll pop up on our Showcase page! We love showing off your work and work in progress!
Stitch the dart in the side of your front lining. End at the dot. To get a smooth dart, you need to get really close to the edge of your dart and think of getting as close to the edge as possible for about 3 stitches, then let your stitches come off the fabric. Pressing also make a big difference in how clean your dart turns out. Press over a ham or a rolled up towel. Use steam and take care not to stretch your fabric.
Sew the side front lining to the front facing (the fashion fabric piece). Stop stitching at the dot. This will leave the bottom few inches open above the hem- which is what you want.
Amity’s note: Match up your seam starting from the top since the bottom will not match up.
When we go to bag the lining, the shorter lining pieces will pull the fashion layer up, creating a professional finish.
Sew the center back linings together, basting as you see in your pattern instruction diagram. You’ll take out your basting later, giving you a relaxed fit in the back but for now basting that area will give you a nice pressed edge. Press and take out basting stitches.
I’m going to show you two ways you can do a coat hook. The differences are the material I used and the placement of the hook itself.
For the first one, I used a 5″ piece of bias binding in pink to match with my lining. A lot of the length will hang while you’re basting it so you could cut a shorter piece if you want. Have fun choosing what to use for your coat hook. Pin and baste your coat hook to your un-interfaced flounce collar.
Stitch the flounce collar to the neck seam with right sides together, matching your notches. Press using a press cloth. Press a little more. Understitch. You can trim and grade your seam allowances before or after you understitch. So long as you grade them.
The other way is to attach the coat hook to the lining before you attach the neck facing. For this one, I went ahead and made a coat hook out of my blue wool.
Cut a piece of your fashion fabric 6″ long by 1.5″. Fold it in half with right sides together and stitch at 3/8″. Trim down to 1/4″.
Turn your tube right side out. You can see with mine that I have fraying bits. This is why I cut the length so long. Trim down the frayed bits and pin to your lining with a loop pointing down toward the body of the lining. Baste in place.
Pin your neck facing to your lining. Stitch in place and trim off the excess loop pieces. Press.
If you went with the first approach to the coat hook, it’s now time to stitch the back neck facing to the center back lining. Start pining at the center.
Pin, curving your pieces together. Smooth them as you sew so you don’t end up with puckers. Press with your press cloth.
Stitch your side back lining to the center back lining on both sides. Your seam allowances are already pretty small so you can use your judgement on whether your fabric needs clipping around the curves. One place that might need a clip is at the waist. Press seams toward the back or open.
Then, stitch the side back of the lining to the side front lining on both sides. Your lining is starting to really take shape now!
Stitch shoulder seams, adding a strip of stay tape. Press shoulder seams open. Using pressing tools will help your pressing.
Set in sleeves
Pin your under and upper sleeve linings. Baste for 10 inches in the middle of one of the sleeve seams. It doesn’t matter which sleeve but just make sure you back stitch before and after the basting . The basting will let you get a nice pressed seam, like with the back lining pieces. You can mark where to start and finish your basting stitches by putting two pins in so you don’t forget the basting.
Press. There isn’t much excess in the sleeve head so you shouldn’t have a problem setting in your sleeve. Line up your notches and stitch in your sleeve. Take care to use your notches so you don’t set in the wrong sleeve.
Attach second flounce collar
Stitch remaining flounce collar (the un-interfaced one with the coat hook loop) to the neck seam with right sides together. Make sure you match your notches. Press and understitch. Trim your seams.
Next time we’ll be bagging the lining! Several of our testers have used this technique for bagging other coat linings so it should prove to be lots of fun to learn! Feel free to visit the Spearmint Sew-Along page to see what we’ll be doing next after that. Thanks for joining us!