Feb 142014
 

Hiya sew-alongers! If you’re just starting to follow the sew-along, feel free to visit the Lolita shop– it’s open whenever you need it! There you can get a PDF version, a paper copy and you can also pick up hair canvas for the flounce collar at a very reasonable price!

As we go along, upload your progress to one of our social media sites whether you prefer Flickr, tag us onFacebook or use #lolitapatterns on Twitter and Instagram so it’ll pop up on our Showcase page! We love showing off your work and work in progress!

Coat Back

Stitch center backs together of your fashion fabric. Press seams open. We suggest you use a press cloth so you avoid shining your wool. Then, stitch up the center back to side back for both sides.

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To get the curved side pieces to lay flat, use a pressing tool like a ham or point presser to press around your curved seam. You will definitely want to use a pressing tool for the front bust curve.

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At this point, if you’re planning on adding a back stay, check out the Lolita tutorial on how to do that. 

Lolita Patterns | Back Stay Tutorial

Side Seams

Stitch your whole back piece to the whole front piece at the side seams. Make sure that when you’re stitching the side seams you stitch them in the same direction for both sides, whether you go from hem to underarm or vice versa.

Shoulder Seams

Cut a piece of stay tape the length of your shoulder seam. Place it on your seam and stitch your shoulders with right sides together, and the stay tape on top. Repeat for the other shoulder.

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Sleeves

Stitch underarm sleeve to the upper sleeve. Ease where needed and repeat for the other sleeve.

Press using pressing tools to get a clean, open seam allowance. Below you can see how Amity used her clapper to press the seams on her sleeve lining piece.

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Amity’s tip: To know which is the front and which is the back of the sleeve, fold your sleeve in half and locate the seam that’s closer to the top of the sleeve. That’s the back of the sleeve.

Set in sleeves using our tie interfacing tutorial to add support, shape and gently gather the sleeve head before stitching it in.

Flounce Collars

With the right sides together, sew your flounce collars together at the back seam. One interfaced collar with one non interfaced collar. Press your collar seams open.

With right sides together, stitch the flounce collar with the hair canvas interfacing to the neck seam. Press. Understitch. Trim and grade your seam allowances.

Next time you’ll be ready to start stitching up the lining! Feel free to visit the Spearmint Sew-Along page to see what we’ll be doing next after that. Thanks for joining us!

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