Feb 062014
 

Another day of prep! Once we get through these few steps and are ready to cut, the sewing will go by really fast- especially in comparison to the stages of decision making, fitting and cutting. If you want to check to see how we’ve grouped the posts of the sew-along, go to the Spearmint sew-along page.

You still have time to pick up your pattern, especially if you’re in the U.S. The Lolita shop is open whenever you need it! There you can get a PDF version, a paper copy and you can also pick up hair canvas for the flounce collar at a very reasonable price!

As we go along, upload your progress to one of our social media sites whether you prefer Flickr, tag us onFacebook or use #lolitapatterns on Twitter and Instagram so it’ll pop up on our Showcase page! We love showing off your work and work in progress!

Prepping fabric

To prep your wool, you’ll want to take one of these steps to pre-shrink it before you cut. If you’re really nervous about any of these suggestions, you can always cut a swatch and try the treatment to see how the coating comes out.

  • If you’re using a poly blend wool you can throw it in the wash- as long as that’s going to be the way your wash your coat once you’re done with it.
  • My favorite way of pre-treating wool is to put it in the dryer with warm wet towels. Put it to dry until the towels are dry.
  • You can also steam your fabric using your iron. Just hover your iron over your fabric and go over every inch.
  • Take your wool to the dry cleaners.

You will want to pre-wash your lining fabric according to the type of fabric you are using. I’m a fan of hand washing silk but if you’re going to be taking your finished Spearmint to the dry cleaners, you might want to take your silk to be pre-treated there, too. For polys, you can throw those in the wash at home.

Fabric layout

Layout all of your pattern pieces on your pre-treated wool before you start cutting so you can make the best use of the fabric you have. You’ll want to make sure you can use your fabric in the most economic way. For the plus size block, you’ll want to cut on the single layer to economize your fabric. So long as your fabric doesn’t have a pile, you can flip your pattern pieces to make them fit best.

Mark all your notches with either a clip with your shears or a mark with an erasable marker. You can keep your pattern pieces in case you need to refer to them throughout construction or mark the letters on your fabric. Just make sure to test your erasable marker on the fabric before you work with your cut fabric.

Use the grainline marks on the pattern pieces to line them up with the selvage. If you’re in doubt, you can use a ruler to line up your grainline with the edge of your fabric. Trace your pattern or pin down so you can cut the pieces out.

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You’ll also want to make sure that you cut your interfacing. You’ll want a little scrap of silk organza for the bound buttonhole. You only need a small amount so you’ll be able to use any other yardage for other projects. You’ll also want to cut out your flounce collar interfacing at this point.

We suggest using hair canvas to get a beautifully draped lettuce collar. That said, I used crinoline for my Zebra print Spearmint and I got a great flounced collar. I’ll be showing you in a video how to get the lovely collar to behave.

Flat lining/Fusing fashion fabric

If your fabric isn’t as thick as you had hoped, you can always flat line it or fuse it with an interfacing to beef it up. To do this, you will want to get enough interfacing to cover your whole coat. The type of interfacing will depend on the type of fabric you’re using but you’ll want something that is the same or even lighter than the fabric you have on hand. We still recommend using the hair canvas for the flounce collar. It sounds like a lot but you’ll be happy with the results.

Here’s Amity’s White coat in the fusing phase.

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Monday we’ll pick up where we left off! Please don’t hesitate to leave any comments or questions.

Happy Sewing!!

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