Dec 182013
 

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Have you ever had a hard time setting in a sleeve? You get puckers no matter what you do? I’m going to show you how to ease your sleeve head before you even set it into your sleeve, giving you more control and a smoother fit, even on hard to ease fabrics.

Materials

Tie interfacing- Take your pic of any of the materials below to ease your sleeve head. Just make sure you match the weight of your fabric to the material you want to use to ease. All are cut on the bias.

  • Go to a thrift or vintage shop and get an old tie.
  • Ask your brother/husband/boyfriend for an old tie.
  • You can also use self fabric
  • Bias strip of lambswool
  • 100 weight polar fleece
  • Armo Rite (aka tie interfacing) or Armo Weft
  • Bias strip of linen
  • Weft interfacing
  • Bias cut lightweight gabardine (100% wool)

The sleeves you’re inserting

The coat/jacket you’re making

Instructions

First, I’m going to show you how easy it is to pull the interfacing out of an old tie. There will be a running stitch down the middle of the tie interfacing. Pull that out and your interfacing will be free to use. You’ll get several strips out of one tie so keep the left overs for your next jacket or coat project!

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing  Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing    

Cut two pieces that measure 1″ by 12″.

Starting at the first easing marking, (or seam if using a two-piece sleeve) place your bias strip down on the wrong side and stitch. There is no need to back stitch.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Start to pull your bias strip as you sew with a long stitch just inside your stitching line.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Your bias strip will get narrower. This is exactly what should happen.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

The strip will gather your sleeve head once you’re done. You can now steam press your sleeve head with the heat/steam necessary for your fabric. Only press the seam allowances. Now you should have a slight lift in the sleeve head that will allow you to insert the sleeve into the armhole with ease.

This is what my zebra print sateen coat looks like mid construction. I used a bias cut strip of linen in my coat.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

From this side of the sleeve, you can see how the bias strip will plump up the sleeve head.

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Insert your sleeve and flip over to see your smooth results!

Lolita Patterns | How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing

Enjoy!

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  12 Responses to “How To Easily Set In Sleeves Using Tie Interfacing”

  1. What a brilliant tip! It would save sewing in a separate sleeve header in a lighter weight fabric jacket too I assume?

  2. What a fabulous tip. Thanks for sharing. Do you have any idea why a long sleeve seam, on me, wants to shift towards the inside of my wrist? Even when I was thinner, this happened and it makes me crazy. I am thinking maybe my rounded shoulders and broad back are causing this and that if I shift the sleeve forward just a little in the armhole, maybe it would fix the problem?

  3. That is such a cool tip! Thanks!

  4. […] Leila from Lolita Patterns shows another method for easing in sleeve caps that can break the puckering and seam ripping cycle.  She uses interfacing for neck ties to ease the extra fabric in before stitching it into the garment.  She says it gives her more control and makes a smoother fit.  Go to Lolita Patterns to see how to do it. […]

  5. WHOA. I wish I had a top cut out & ready to sew to try this! Thank you so much for the tutorial!

  6. I love this tip! (I got here from Lladybird :) )

    I’m making a heavy wool coat – do you think I should still use sleeve heading if i do this?

    • Thanks for popping on over! That Lladybird is awesome! :)

      You can do both. The tie interfacing will help set your sleeve but the sleeve head will help support the fabric. Some sleeve heads are wider than the tie interfacing needs to be so if you’re already going to do it, I say do both. You can also apply the tie interfacing and then baste in your sleeve heading to see if you like the look. Hope that helps.

  7. This is really cool ! Thank you so much for the photos and clear explanations !

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