Have you ever had a hard time setting in a sleeve? You get puckers no matter what you do? I’m going to show you how to ease your sleeve head before you even set it into your sleeve, giving you more control and a smoother fit, even on hard to ease fabrics.
Tie interfacing- Take your pic of any of the materials below to ease your sleeve head. Just make sure you match the weight of your fabric to the material you want to use to ease. All are cut on the bias.
- Go to a thrift or vintage shop and get an old tie.
- Ask your brother/husband/boyfriend for an old tie.
- You can also use self fabric
- Bias strip of lambswool
- 100 weight polar fleece
- Armo Rite (aka tie interfacing) or Armo Weft
- Bias strip of linen
- Weft interfacing
- Bias cut lightweight gabardine (100% wool)
The sleeves you’re inserting
The coat/jacket you’re making
First, I’m going to show you how easy it is to pull the interfacing out of an old tie. There will be a running stitch down the middle of the tie interfacing. Pull that out and your interfacing will be free to use. You’ll get several strips out of one tie so keep the left overs for your next jacket or coat project!
Cut two pieces that measure 1″ by 12″.
Starting at the first easing marking, (or seam if using a two-piece sleeve) place your bias strip down on the wrong side and stitch. There is no need to back stitch.
Start to pull your bias strip as you sew with a long stitch just inside your stitching line.
Your bias strip will get narrower. This is exactly what should happen.
The strip will gather your sleeve head once you’re done. You can now steam press your sleeve head with the heat/steam necessary for your fabric. Only press the seam allowances. Now you should have a slight lift in the sleeve head that will allow you to insert the sleeve into the armhole with ease.
This is what my zebra print sateen coat looks like mid construction. I used a bias cut strip of linen in my coat.
From this side of the sleeve, you can see how the bias strip will plump up the sleeve head.
Insert your sleeve and flip over to see your smooth results!