Jan 102014

Welcome back sew-alonger! How is your Gunmetal coming along? Did you opt for the D-rings or the buttons? I can’t wait to see your finished makes…which brings us to today!

If you’re just joining us, feel free to go to the Gunmetal Sew-Along page to see all the posts in one spot. If you still need to buy your Gunmetal pattern, click here to go to the Lolita Patterns shop. You have the option to buy the paper copy, a PDF copy or a paper copy with D-rings.

Side front overlays

Sew with a long stitch along the length of both sides, arm and neck of side front overlay (7). Pull the threads to gather. Leave the marked part of the side front ungathered. That way, you won’t have gathers across the bust, but you will have gathers along your waist and shoulder.

Matching notches, layer the overlay onto the right side of the side front and stitch each edge with a 1/4″ seam allowance to hold in place. Repeat for the other side. You will work these two pieces as one from here on out.

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Sewing bodice together

Stitch the side front combo to the side center (5) with your right sides together.


Sew center front lining (10) piece to side front lining (6) pieces. Then, stitch side back combo (overlay plus knit-9) to center back (8) with your right sides together. Repeat for the back lining pieces. (Sorry the color changes so much. I started taking pictures for the sew-along in Indiana and finished up in California.)

Apply stay tape to the wrong side of the neckline on your fashion pieces. Below you can see the back and the stay tape. Do the same for the front.


Stitch front to back at the shoulders and side seams. Repeat for the lining.

Neck ruffle

Stitch long ends of neck ruffle (15) with the right sides together to make a loop. Matching notches, place your ruffle right sides together along the neck edge and stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Make sure you catch the ruffles and ribbon on the front of your bodice.


Attaching lining

Layer and line up the edge of the lining to the neck edge of the your garment and with right sides together, match notches. Stitch all around your neck edge. You can easily use a straight stitch since the neck is open enough to go around your head. You can also use a serger for any and all of these steps.

Turn your lining to the inside of your bodice. You might notice that my lining has different colored side pieces. You are correct! I ran out of fabric and have a lace print knit on the lining. Make sure your ruffles are lying as flat as can be so you don’t twist it and stitch a pretty ruffle into the seam. This happened to me but it’s easy to pick out if you’re using a straight stitch.

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Give your bodice a nice press. You might want to use a press cloth so you don’t shine up your knit or melt your ruffles.

One more session and you’ll have your own Gunmetal!

Any questions so far? Have you been to the Lolita Patterns Flickr group yet? Go check it out!

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  4 Responses to “Gunmetal Sew-Along #3: side front overlays, sewing bodice together, neck ruffle, attaching lining”

  1. I has question! I’m off to buy stay tape today but where exactly are we attaching it? From your pics, it looks like it is even with raw edge, from pattern diagrams, it looks like on seam line. I.E, When we sew the lining and bodice together at the neckline, should the stay tape end up within the body of the garment (inside the seamline) or on the seamline or within the seam allowance? Thanks! I’ve never used stay tape anywhere but shoulder seams.

    • Just like the pattern diagrams. Yup. On the seam line. You’ll love stay tape on the neckline. It’ll stay in place and never stretch out.

      • Ok, thanks! The ‘good’ news is that my local fabric shoppe did not have Stay Tape. So, I bought iron-on Seams Soft, (a fine, sheer bias binding) instead. But now wonder if this also will stretch too much. Another option is to cut strips from Iron On Interfacing.

        • Oh no, that was the “good news”. Sorry to hear that. Okay, You can definitely use the bias binding. Use a straight stitch when you sew the necks together and you shouldn’t get any stretching. I’ve also cut trips from iron on interfacing, like you’re talking about doing, and have had good results, too! If you’re doubting the bias binding, use the interfacing, just make sure it isn’t too hefty.

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