Jan 082014

Today we begin prepping pieces so that we can get all our ruffles ruffled and D-rings placed and so on. This is a fairly quick make once all the pretty pre-work is done. So, let’s get to it. Lots of tips today!

If you’re just joining us, feel free to go to the Gunmetal Sew-Along page to see all the posts. If you still need to buy your Gunmetal pattern, click here to go to the Lolita Patterns shop. You have the option to buy the paper copy, a PDF copy or a paper copy with D-rings.

Prepare the pieces

I cut my overlay a little bit longer just because the length gets eaten up a bit when you baste it. As you can see in the second photo, the basting stitch on my sewing machine made the fabric and overlay gather. I left long tails so that I could un-gather the fabric and then it was laying flat just fine. You can also baste the overlay with your fabric on a serger. I recommend putting the overlay face down so that the feed dogs can grip it better.

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Both approaches to basting the overlay work just fine. It just depends on what machines you have.

Baste the accompanying overlays (I used my serger but you can use a long straight stitch on your sewing machine), wrong side to right sides of the side backs (9) and center back (8) pieces. Now you’ll treat them as one piece. Like this:



Below you can see that I have finished the edges of the burgundy upper ruffle (12) but I haven’t finished the lower ruffle (11) and because it’s a knit you can choose what look you want. You can serge them or do a zig zag on your machine. If you have an overlock stitch, you can use that, too. Or you can leave the edges raw. I cut the neck ruffle (15) along the selvage and therefore didn’t do any finishing.

Note: If you bought ruffle trim, this is where you would use it!

Once your ruffles are prepped, gather them with a long basting stitch. Your overlay ruffle pieces will gather mostly as you feed them through the machine so you will probably need to un-gather them a bit so they match the side center piece.


Layer and adjust the lower and upper ruffles so they match the raw edges of piece 5.


Stitch using a 1/4″ seam to hold the ruffles in place on both sides.


D-rings (View B only)

Cut your ribbon into 20 pieces, each 1 and 1/8″ long. I used a novelty glitter ribbon but the pattern calls for a regular ribbon. That said, the sky is the limit. Once cut, thread each piece of ribbon through your D-rings and secure with a 1/4″ seam to hold in place.

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To save time, you can stitch the ribbon in a continuous row as you can see below, left. When you’re done, you’ll have a chain of D-rings as seen bottom, right. Just snip in between each D-ring/ribbon pair and you’re ready for the next step.

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If you haven’t marked your center front (4), place your D-ring placement pattern piece and pin each D-ring/ribbon pair on to the center front. Make sure the D-rings match up on both sides. When stitching my glitter ribbon to the center front piece I found that I had to adjust the fabric because of the height difference. With a satin ribbon, you shouldn’t have any problem but keep an eye on your knit.

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Sew front bodice pieces

With right sides together, and making sure you don’t catch the ruffles, stitch center front (4) and side center (5) together. Repeat for the other side. For View B, you also want to topstitch the length of ribbon over both seam joins.

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Take a break! You’re half way through construction! See you next time! And don’t forget to share photos on our Lolita Patterns Flickr Pool and use the #lolitapatterns tag when you’re on social media! Have a great day!

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