Feb 132013
 

For this second post of the Fuchsia Sew-Along we will be finishing up all the bits and pieces that need to be finished before we can start sewing.  This includes interfacing the waistband, interfacing where the zipper will be inserted, finishing the bottom edge of the waistband facing, and marking the scallop stitching line, zipper placement, and second tier placement line. Phew! Sounds like a lot when you type it out but it will actually go quickly.

Missed any of the other Sew-Along posts? You can find them all here!

Interfacing Your Fabric

During the last post, we cut out the interfacing for our waistband. In this post, we need to fuse the interfacing on to the waistband pieces. To fuse interfacing, I usually place it fusible side down to the wrong side of the waistband and then spray it with a spray bottle and cover it with a press cloth. Then I press (not iron! Just press and lift movements) over the entire surface until it is completely dry. At that point, any potential shrinking of the interfacing will have occurred and the interfacing should be well fused.

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew-Along 2_1

Now let’s grab the interfacing scraps we saved from the last post. I cut 1 inch wide strips to use to stabilize the zipper area. You can also use a fusible seam tape or stay tape if you wish. The zipper will be inserted on the left side of the skirt. Fuse the interfacing strips using the same method described above to the left hand side of the front and back skirt bottom pieces–pattern pieces 7 and 10.

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew-Along 2_2

If you look closely, you can see the interfacing strips fused on the edges from the top down. The zipper will not go all the way to the bottom so if your interfacing only goes most of the way, as it shows in the above picture,  it will still work.

Marking Your Fabric

We need to mark the scallop stitching line, the zipper placement dot, and the placement for the second skirt layer.

First, go ahead and mark the zipper placement dot. This dot is on pattern piece 7. This piece should still be out from fusing the interfacing strip above.

Next, on both pattern piece 7 and 10, we need to mark the placement line for the second tier. All I did was snip at each edge of the placement line. I am always in favor of snipping over marking if it is an option. The little snips at each edge, as long as the snips are within the 3/8 inch seam allowance, will work beautifully to help you place your second tier when we get to the stitching.

Lastly, marking the scallops! There are several ways to do this. The key is to find which one works best for you and your fabric. Also, if you have fabric that will not taking markings, hold off on this step. We figured out a work around and will cover that when we get to sewing the scallops in the next post.

First way of marking the scallops is to use a tracing paper and tracing wheel.

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew-Along 2_3

Layer your lining wrong side up, tracing paper colored side down, and then the pattern piece on top.

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Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew-Along 2_5

Take the tracing wheel and trace along the scallops pressing hard enough for the paper to transfer to the lining. When you are finished, it should look something like this:

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew-Along 2_7

Another way to mark, is by using Frixion pens. I did a review of these pens on PR. You can see that review here. These pens remove with the heat of your iron. I have found that using a lower heat, a polyester setting, and NO steam works best for removing these marks. I use these pens almost exclusively for marking now. I only am unable to use them when the fabric is dark and in those instances I use this same method but use a Chaco liner in white instead of the Frixion pen.

For this method, I cut the scallops on the paper pattern piece. I personally only cut one of the pieces and made sure I placed them where they belonged on each pattern piece by following each piece. But if that sounds too confusing, it is probably better to cut each piece. Keep in mind that if you cut the pieces, you may need to reprint out the pattern if you make this skirt again. Or you can just remember to cut a rectangle around the scallops in the future.

Place the lining piece wrong side up, and the paper pattern piece with the scallops cut away on top. Then mark along them with your marking tool.

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew Along 2_8

They will end up looking something like this. (Mine are wobbly because the lining fabric is so slippery–it won’t make a difference. I still have a line to follow with my stitching)

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Finishing The Facing Edges

Last step for today! Let’s finish the bottom edge of the interfaced waistband pieces. You only need to finish the bottom edge of the waistband pieces that have interfacing on them. You can do this with seam binding, zig zag stitching, serging, or by folding over a 1/4 inch seam and stitching it down. I normally serge or zig zag my edges but you may prefer a cleaner finish inside. In that case, folding the bottom edge under 1/4 inch and stitching, or applying seam binding tape may be the way to go.

Lolita Patterns Fuchsia Sew Along 2_11

That’s it for today! The next post will cover all about stitching, trimming, and pressing your scallops. We were planning on posting this on Friday, 2/15. If you need any more time or have questions, leave us a comment or email us!!

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  9 Responses to “Fuchsia Sew-Along #2: Interfacing and marking your fabric”

  1. Hi,

    another question…

    I am making this skirt in black lace with a pink lining for contrast.

    First of all, I didn’t cut my waistband twice out of my lace fabric, but once in lace and once in lining. This means that I can’t apply interfacing. Will this be a problem?

    What about my zipper? Should I be worried that it won’t stay in well if I sew it in the lace? I will of course attach it to the lining as well.

    Third, the scallops in the hem. Will there be a problem with those?

    Any other pointers/guidelines/tips I should be aware of sewing lace? (It’s the first time I’m using lace so more questions are bound to follow… )

    Thanks for the info!
    Wendy

    • We ran into these issues when making the bordeaux lace version and the lime eyelet version. You were correct to cut the waistband pieces out of both the lace and the lining. In this instance, you will fuse the interfacing to the lining pieces. We will essentially be treating the lace and lining as one piece for purposes of the waistband. You can even baste the waistband lace and lining together so it is easier to treat it as one piece. Apply interfacing to the lining side of one front and one back. Then finish the raw edges of the interfaced waistband pieces only.
      As far as the interfacing for the zipper goes, I would wait and interface the edge of pieces 7 and 10 until after you have sewn the scallops and pressed. So for you, you would apply the strips of interfacing after we complete the next sew-along post.
      The scallops in the hem should not present any problem when working with lace. We have made two versions that way! My only question is are you using the scalloped selvage edge that the lace already has? Or will you be following the pattern scallops? You can do it either way.
      For the most part, the lace should be able to be sewn almost the exact same as any other fabric for this skirt. The one part to watch out for is the interfacing for the zipper and the waistband as you mentioned. If I think of other parts that are applicable to lace as we go along, I will make sure and let you know!

    • P.S. Your fabric sounds like an amazing combination!! Sounds similar to another Fuchsia we will feature soon….

    • I also forgot to mention that you will need to cut out another set of waistbands out of lace and lining. Since you will be using them as one piece, you only have one set cut out so far and you need two sets for the waistband. You have to cut extra because your fashion fabric requires lining in the waistband. Does that make sense?

  2. Just a question… Do I have to serge the bottom edge of all the 4 waistband pieces (1 front, 1 front interfaced, 1 back, 1 back interfaced)?
    Thanks,
    MammaNene

  3. […] should now go ahead and place the strips of interfacing where the zipper will be attached that we discussed in the previous post. Piece 7 and 10, where the zipper is attached, are now completely right side out and the lining is […]

  4. […] The Tier 2 pieces will be attached to the bottom tier pieces on the line we marked with snips in Sew-Along Post #2.  Make sure you attach the front tier 2 to the front bottom tier, and the back tier 2 to the back […]

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