Nov 302013
 

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Bound buttonholes are a beautiful touch for coats and below we have for you a step by step with tips on how to get a lovely one made. We recommend doing a trial run if this is your first time doing a bound buttonhole. That way you can practice and perfect your skills before you start on your final garment.

Materials

Bound buttonhole pattern piece – I am using the piece from Spearmint

Fabric- I’m using a medium wool coating.

Silk organza (I’m using black organza for this tutorial)

scrap of lightweight fusible interfacing

Buttonhole cutter or scissors to cut open the buttonhole

Chalk or other erasable marker or pencil

Instructions

I’m showing you on a scrap piece of wool coating. Below you can see the larger piece which is meant to be the coat itself.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Cut piece 18 (the bound buttonhole piece)

2 fashion and 2 organza

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Mark the buttonhole line and rectangle around the line. The line is where you’ll be cutting the buttonhole open. You’ll want to mark the buttonhole line and rectangle on all your pieces.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Place rectangle of organza right side down on right side of center front, centering over buttonhole placement line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Starting at one of the long ends, as you can see below, stitch all the way around your marked rectangle.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Either with buttonhole cutters or scissors, cut open your buttonhole.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You want to cut from your center line to each corner, as close as you can get.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold your organza to the center and press, in preparation for turning it to the wrong side of your fabric. Pull the organza to the wrong side and press again. Keep pressing until you get all of your organza out of sight, or as much as you can see from the front.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You can use a clapper to get the organza and the fabric to press nicely.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now, you will have an open “window”, ready to stitch on the “lips” aka the opening of your buttonhole.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole  

The next big rectangle would be the facing of your coat, seen on the right below. You can see I started marking my line and then you mark the rectangle all around, according to your pattern piece.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Line up your coat facing with the bound buttonhole window you already created to make sure everything line up. It’ll be clear if it line up with your actual coat pieces. If they don’t, redraw your facing buttonhole line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Place scrap of fusible interfacing right side (the non-fusible side) down on the right side of facing, centering over your placement line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Mark your cutting line and the rectangle around it.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Once again, starting the the center of one of the long sides of your rectangle, stitch all the way around.  Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Cut your buttonhole facing open. Push the interfacing to the wrong side with your fingers. You will press the piece of interfacing once it’s in place because you don’t want the glue to start sticking to your iron.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now you have two windows- one on the front of your coat and one on the facing. Topstitch around edge of the facing window.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

With your two buttonhole pieces right sides together, baste down the center. I like to use a contrasting thread so that I can see it easily when I’m ready to pull out the basting.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold pieces out and press open to create buttonhole lips.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Below you can see the two pieces, folded.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now we’re ready to attach the new “lips” to the window.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Center lips under the window you created for the outer part of your coat.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold back center front to show one of the long edges you cut open when you were creating your buttonhole. Stitch right on the edge being careful not to catch any other piece of your work.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You can pin it if you want.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Use a short stitch since this buttonhole will get used every time you use you coat.  Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold back center front to show the short edge of your rectangle. This will look like a small triangle. Stitch right along the base of the triangle. Again, make sure you use a short stitch and avoid stitching any other part of your coat front so you don’t end up with puckers.

Backstitch. Repeat for other side.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

There you have the front of your bound buttonhole!

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You’ll take out your basting stitches once your coat is complete but I wanted to show you what it would look like so here it is, open!

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now, after the coat is finished, you will want to attach the facing to the center front where the buttonhole is.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Since I want to make sure any bits of interfacing I used on my facing will be invisible, I’m going to slip stitch the front of my bound buttonhole to the facing by using my needle to pick fabric from the front and going over or just beyond the interfacing on the facing to catch fabric that will essentially close the gap and hide any interfacing that might be showing.

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The more you whipstitch, the more the interfacing gets hidden and sandwiched between your fabric. Go all the way around and secure your thread well.

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Now, you’ll be proud to show off the inside of your bound buttonholes!

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Let us know if you have any question or need any clarifications. We’re here to help!

leila signature

  7 Responses to “Easy Bound Buttonhole Tutorial”

  1. What a great tutorial. I have never attempted to tackle a pattern that had bound buttons holes. Your steps make it seems so easy. Thankyou.

  2. Very cool. I want to try this sometime. Now that I’ve done double welt pockets a few times and also interior zipper pockets on bags a few times, this doesn’t seem so out of reach. :) I like all the step by step pix too!

    I won’t be able to enter the Sugar Plum contest but I do want to make my Sugar Plum in 2014!!!

    :)

  3. […] While a machine stitched buttonhole uses thread to cover the edges of a buttonhole, a bound buttonhole uses strips of matching fabric to finish the hole.  It’s a detail you often find on a coat.  Leila from Lolita Patterns shows how to make one.  It looks difficult, but if you take it step by step it’s actually pretty easy.  Go to Lolita Patterns for her tutorial. […]

  4. […] Sew on your button and slip stitch your bound button hole shut. Remember these images from the Lolita Patterns bound button hole tutorial? […]

  5. I have read many tutorials on bound buttonholes today as I’m preparing to sew a new coat. I’ve done this before, but I wanted to review and make sure my technique was right. Yours is by far the best one I’ve read! Your instructions are straightforward, your pictures show all the steps clearly, and your method is simple and uncomplicated! Thank you!

  6. […] the facing. But there is one method that uses interfacing to glue the opening in place. I used the tutorial by lolitapatterns   which is very clear – I’ve just always had a slight wobble at the end when attaching […]

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