Bound buttonholes are a beautiful touch for coats and below we have for you a step by step with tips on how to get a lovely one made. We recommend doing a trial run if this is your first time doing a bound buttonhole. That way you can practice and perfect your skills before you start on your final garment.
Bound buttonhole pattern piece- this is usually 1 inch longer than your button by 1 1/2 inch high
Fabric- I’m using a medium wool coating.
Silk organza (I’m using black organza for this tutorial)
scrap of lightweight fusible interfacing
Buttonhole cutter or scissors to cut open the buttonhole
Chalk or other erasable marker or pencil
I’m showing you on a scrap piece of wool coating. Below you can see the larger piece which is meant to be the coat itself.
Cut piece 18 (the bound buttonhole piece)
2 fashion and 2 organza
Mark the buttonhole line and rectangle around the line. The line is where you’ll be cutting the buttonhole open. You’ll want to mark the buttonhole line and rectangle on all your pieces.
Place rectangle of organza right side down on right side of center front, centering over buttonhole placement line.
Starting at one of the long ends, as you can see below, stitch all the way around your marked rectangle.
Either with buttonhole cutters or scissors, cut open your buttonhole.
You want to cut from your center line to each corner, as close as you can get.
Fold your organza to the center and press, in preparation for turning it to the wrong side of your fabric. Pull the organza to the wrong side and press again. Keep pressing until you get all of your organza out of sight, or as much as you can see from the front.
You can use a clapper to get the organza and the fabric to press nicely.
Now, you will have an open “window”, ready to stitch on the “lips” aka the opening of your buttonhole.
The next big rectangle would be the facing of your coat, seen on the right below. You can see I started marking my line and then you mark the rectangle all around, according to your pattern piece.
Line up your coat facing with the bound buttonhole window you already created to make sure everything line up. It’ll be clear if it line up with your actual coat pieces. If they don’t, redraw your facing buttonhole line.
Place scrap of fusible interfacing right side (the non-fusible side) down on the right side of facing, centering over your placement line.
Mark your cutting line and the rectangle around it.
Cut your buttonhole facing open. Push the interfacing to the wrong side with your fingers. You will press the piece of interfacing once it’s in place because you don’t want the glue to start sticking to your iron.
Now you have two windows- one on the front of your coat and one on the facing. Topstitch around edge of the facing window.
With your two buttonhole pieces right sides together, baste down the center. I like to use a contrasting thread so that I can see it easily when I’m ready to pull out the basting.
Fold pieces out and press open to create buttonhole lips.
Below you can see the two pieces, folded.
Now we’re ready to attach the new “lips” to the window.
Center lips under the window you created for the outer part of your coat.
Fold back center front to show one of the long edges you cut open when you were creating your buttonhole. Stitch right on the edge being careful not to catch any other piece of your work.
You can pin it if you want.
Fold back center front to show the short edge of your rectangle. This will look like a small triangle. Stitch right along the base of the triangle. Again, make sure you use a short stitch and avoid stitching any other part of your coat front so you don’t end up with puckers.
Backstitch. Repeat for other side.
There you have the front of your bound buttonhole!
You’ll take out your basting stitches once your coat is complete but I wanted to show you what it would look like so here it is, open!
Now, after the coat is finished, you will want to attach the facing to the center front where the buttonhole is.
Since I want to make sure any bits of interfacing I used on my facing will be invisible, I’m going to slip stitch the front of my bound buttonhole to the facing by using my needle to pick fabric from the front and going over or just beyond the interfacing on the facing to catch fabric that will essentially close the gap and hide any interfacing that might be showing.
The more you whipstitch, the more the interfacing gets hidden and sandwiched between your fabric. Go all the way around and secure your thread well.
Now, you’ll be proud to show off the inside of your bound buttonholes!
Let us know if you have any question or need any clarifications. We’re here to help!