Feb 112014

Lolita Patterns | Back Stay Tutorial

A back stay serves the purpose of lending stability to the back of a coat, right at the upper back. It’ll also help keep the shape of your coat while you wear it and while it’s hanging on a coat hanger. You will want to add a back stay even if you’re underlining your coat.

Materials needed

Coat pattern pieces

Firmly woven sew-in interfacing, though you can also use a quilting cotton or muslin

Tracing paper or something equally suitable

Draft the back stay

Since the Spearmint coat has a side back panel, you will want to overlap your pieces before you start creating your back stay pattern piece.

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Make a mark 7-8″ down from the neck along the back seam.

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Make another mark 3″ down from the armhole.

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Connect your two mark with a gently sloping curve.

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Trace your back stay pattern.

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Since the back is seamed, you want to cut off the seam allowance and mark your pattern to be cut on the fold.

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Cut out your back stay in a suitable fabric/interfacing. Use pinking shears, pink the bottom curved edge so you don’t have a hard edge along the back.

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Attach the back stay

Stitch up your back fashion pieces, right sides together. Press seams open.

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Place your back stay on the wrong side of the back seamed pieces. Smooth out your back stay and machine baste around the side, armhole, shoulders and neck, leaving bottom curve free. You can also use glue and glue baste your back stay in just don’t glue the bottom edge. Let it dry and continue with construction.

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  4 Responses to “Back Stay Tutorial”

  1. Waw! Before I actually started reading the tutorial, thought that back stay is difficult. In fairness, I did not exactly know what a back stay is. Now I know. I will sure use this tutorial to add a back stay to my next Spearmint. :) thanks for sharing.

  2. […] Leila from Lolita Patterns shows how you can add a back stay to the next coat or jacket that you make.  A back stay stabilizes the upper back of the coat so the fabric keeps its shape.  It’ll also help prevent strain on the fabric across the shoulders.  She shows how to draft a pattern piece for the back stay and how to sew it in. Go to Lolita Patterns for the tutorial. […]

  3. […] this point, if you’re planning on adding a back stay, check out the Lolita tutorial on how to do […]

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