Nov 302013
 

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Bound buttonholes are a beautiful touch for coats and below we have for you a step by step with tips on how to get a lovely one made. We recommend doing a trial run if this is your first time doing a bound buttonhole. That way you can practice and perfect your skills before you start on your final garment.

Materials

Bound buttonhole pattern piece – I am using the piece from Spearmint

Fabric- I’m using a medium wool coating.

Silk organza (I’m using black organza for this tutorial)

scrap of lightweight fusible interfacing

Buttonhole cutter or scissors to cut open the buttonhole

Chalk or other erasable marker or pencil

Instructions

I’m showing you on a scrap piece of wool coating. Below you can see the larger piece which is meant to be the coat itself.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Cut piece 18 (the bound buttonhole piece)

2 fashion and 2 organza

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Mark the buttonhole line and rectangle around the line. The line is where you’ll be cutting the buttonhole open. You’ll want to mark the buttonhole line and rectangle on all your pieces.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Place rectangle of organza right side down on right side of center front, centering over buttonhole placement line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Starting at one of the long ends, as you can see below, stitch all the way around your marked rectangle.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Either with buttonhole cutters or scissors, cut open your buttonhole.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You want to cut from your center line to each corner, as close as you can get.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold your organza to the center and press, in preparation for turning it to the wrong side of your fabric. Pull the organza to the wrong side and press again. Keep pressing until you get all of your organza out of sight, or as much as you can see from the front.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You can use a clapper to get the organza and the fabric to press nicely.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now, you will have an open “window”, ready to stitch on the “lips” aka the opening of your buttonhole.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole  

The next big rectangle would be the facing of your coat, seen on the right below. You can see I started marking my line and then you mark the rectangle all around, according to your pattern piece.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Line up your coat facing with the bound buttonhole window you already created to make sure everything line up. It’ll be clear if it line up with your actual coat pieces. If they don’t, redraw your facing buttonhole line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Place scrap of fusible interfacing right side (the non-fusible side) down on the right side of facing, centering over your placement line.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Mark your cutting line and the rectangle around it.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Once again, starting the the center of one of the long sides of your rectangle, stitch all the way around.  Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Cut your buttonhole facing open. Push the interfacing to the wrong side with your fingers. You will press the piece of interfacing once it’s in place because you don’t want the glue to start sticking to your iron.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now you have two windows- one on the front of your coat and one on the facing. Topstitch around edge of the facing window.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

With your two buttonhole pieces right sides together, baste down the center. I like to use a contrasting thread so that I can see it easily when I’m ready to pull out the basting.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold pieces out and press open to create buttonhole lips.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Below you can see the two pieces, folded.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now we’re ready to attach the new “lips” to the window.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Center lips under the window you created for the outer part of your coat.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold back center front to show one of the long edges you cut open when you were creating your buttonhole. Stitch right on the edge being careful not to catch any other piece of your work.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You can pin it if you want.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Use a short stitch since this buttonhole will get used every time you use you coat.  Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Fold back center front to show the short edge of your rectangle. This will look like a small triangle. Stitch right along the base of the triangle. Again, make sure you use a short stitch and avoid stitching any other part of your coat front so you don’t end up with puckers.

Backstitch. Repeat for other side.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

There you have the front of your bound buttonhole!

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

You’ll take out your basting stitches once your coat is complete but I wanted to show you what it would look like so here it is, open!

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Now, after the coat is finished, you will want to attach the facing to the center front where the buttonhole is.

Lolita Patterns | Easy Bound Buttonhole

Since I want to make sure any bits of interfacing I used on my facing will be invisible, I’m going to slip stitch the front of my bound buttonhole to the facing by using my needle to pick fabric from the front and going over or just beyond the interfacing on the facing to catch fabric that will essentially close the gap and hide any interfacing that might be showing.

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The more you whipstitch, the more the interfacing gets hidden and sandwiched between your fabric. Go all the way around and secure your thread well.

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Now, you’ll be proud to show off the inside of your bound buttonholes!

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Let us know if you have any question or need any clarifications. We’re here to help!

leila signature

Nov 272013
 

I know some of you were wondering where the themed giveaway for this pattern was. Well now you know the answer!  When Gunmetal was first released, there were a few giveaways for the pattern around the blogosphere and I wanted to give those a chance to complete before announcing the themed giveaway.  This giveaway has a lot of Gunmetal colored goodies and I must say, this was the easiest one to find things for. So let’s see what we have!

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal Giveaway

 

1. We have a very cool double ended eyeliner from Milani. (I have these in every color) The thin end has a blackened gunmetal color for eyeliner and the fatter end has a sparkled silvery gunmetal color for shadow. They are very pretty. I use these all the time when I am wearing a certain color as the “blackened” color on one end is great. The blackened pink is an especially pretty color to wear with purple eyeshadows.

2. A gunmetal colored thread from Coats and Clark.

3. A gunmetal colored metal zipper. (Will work great with two other things later on in the giveaway)

4. A Sally Hansen nail polish in color “Gunmetal”!

5. Hot fix rhinestones in a gunmetal color. These are so much fun! You place them where you want them and cover with a press cloth and hold the iron on them and they literally fix into place permanently! You can also use a hot fix rhinestone tool. (This is the one I use.)

6. A gorgeous sparkly silvery gunmetal quilting cotton. 1/3 of a yard. This is the perfect amount to make a cute pouch or place for your makeup or clutch. Use the zipper from number 3 and the buttons for a front pocket from number 11. And the thread from number 2 to sew it up! All the supplies you need are in this giveaway!

7. Benefit lipstick in color Hollywood Roll. Now you may think, this isn’t gunmetal colored. Well yes, the lipstick isn’t…I didn’t think gunmetal colored lipstick would be very popular. But look at the case!  The case is a kind of gunmetal color…. :)

8. A super cute headband that is gunmetal colored with some rhinestones on it. Sometimes, it is just a headband kind of day.

9. An eyeshadow quad from Rimmel in the most gorgeous shades of gunmetal. From white to black and in between. And it has some pretty shimmer!

10. The Gunmetal pattern itself!

11. Two clear buttons with gunmetal sparkles. Perfect for use in that clutch/makeup pouch we discussed in number 6.

12. Sparkly glitter eyeliner. Now some of you may be thinking this is to twee…but check this out. I wear sparkle eyeliner all the time for a night out and I’ll explain how to make it look elegant. First use your dark colored eyeliner such as black, charcoal, or brown. Whichever you prefer. Then take this eyeliner and put it over the top. It adds a little sparkle that goes well with the dark color and is not crazy…it really looks elegant when you use glitter eyeliner this way.

13. One yard of gunmetal colored ponte roma fabric. This fabric is perfect for a Sugar Plum!

14. Five yards of gunmetal diamond ribbon. Look close. See the beautiful shaded diamonds?  This ribbon is beautiful!

15. Ten gunmetal colored shank buttons. These buttons would be absolutely perfect for a trench coat!

16. A gunmetal colored invisible zipper.

Phew!  That is a lot of goodies! Now for the fine print:

This giveaway is open to everyone, everywhere. First follow the blog (you can follow through wordpress or bloglovin’) and then leave a comment below to be entered. You can like us on Facebook for another entry and follow us on Twitter and/or Pinterest for additional entries. Let me know in the comments below if you have additional entries.

This giveaway will close on midnight, Pacific Time Zone, of Friday December 6th. Good luck! Also remember, today is the last day to use the code gun15metal to get 15% off the physical version of Gunmetal!

Edited to add: THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED! THANK YOU FOR ENTERING!

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Nov 252013
 

I wanted to remind you all about the Sugar Plum contest we have going on. There have been so many beautiful versions and we want to showcase all of them!  A reader voted contest seemed like a fun idea…especially since I was going to London and going to pick up some extra special prizes :)

Here is a reminder of the prize:

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest

The winner of the contest will receive any two Lolita Patterns of their choice (and we have some good ones on their way soon!) and the special bonus prizes I picked up in London.

Now I am here to tell you what the bonus prizes are!  While in England I think I went to nearly all the fabric shops in the greater London area! I found this gorgeous beaded fabric while shopping with Simona at Saeeds Fabrics in Walthamstow, recommended by Karen of Did You Make That.

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

It is hard to show the texture so I am showing you several photos. It is a greenish blue and brown beaded in an animal print fabric. The texture is incredible…I have never felt anything quite like it. It is truly beautiful and exquisite. I picked up 1 yard for the very lucky winner.

  Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

And what would a trip to London be without stopping at Liberty?

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

I picked up a beautiful Liberty sewing notion kit for the winner!  It is a needle case filled with everything you could need for your hand sewing needs. The outside is a beautiful floral Liberty print and I have taken a picture of each “page” of the inside so you can see all it comes with!

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest Prize

Aren’t these prizes wonderful? I am so excited for the contest!  As a reminder, anyone who has made a Sugar Plum can enter!  Post your pictures to our Flickr page and make sure to tag them Sugar Plum. The contest is open until December 2nd at midnight Pacific Time Zone. Don’t have a Flickr account? No problem! I will feature the entries on the blog so everyone can vote, so if you don’t have a Flickr account, you can send the pictures to me and I’ll make sure they get entered.

If you made a Sugar Plum and have pictures posted somewhere and I don’t know about it, please send me an email! I would love to add you to our Pinterest page of Sugar Plums found in the wild!

I am so excited about the next pattern. The testers look drop dead gorgeous in it!!!  It is currently at the printers so I hope to have it available soon. I predict it will be our most popular pattern!  With the holidays, the delivery might be slightly delayed, so I might pre-sale it before it arrives if the printing and shipping takes a little extra so you all can get your copies ordered before the holidays. Hint: There might be a holiday special!

A lot of people have emailed me about their finished Sugar Plums so I would love for you to send along pics or post them to Flickr so you can be in the contest! Enter your Sugar Plum and you might even get the next couple patterns for free if you win! Not to mention this fantabulous fabric and Liberty needle case!

Still need to grab a Sugar Plum so you can enter the contest?  You can get the PDF version here in the shop to start making it immediately! Don’t forget if you get stuck, there is always the sew-along to help and you can email me! I answer emails at all hours so don’t hesitate to contact me.

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

 

Nov 192013
 

I wanted to show you pictures of some tester versions so you could see all the different ways this pattern can look. When this pattern first went out for testing, many people said “ruffles are not really for me.” I said “Great! No problem! Leave them off…it still looks great!”  Here is the thing: This pattern looks amazing without ruffles, with ruffles, with some ruffles, any way you can think it!  The pattern is all knit and extremely comfortable and all the pieces are very shaped to give a great fit, so you can make it into a basic as well as a dress for going out. Here are some pictures to help show you how versatile this pattern can really be!

  Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal by The Hobby Harbor

This Gunmetal was made by Diya from The Hobby Harbor. She posted many pictures and information on her blog post. She really made this pattern her own. She left off all the ruffles and made a higher, squared neckline. I love the way this turned out. In addition, she made her peplum asymmetrical for some added pizzazz.

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal by The Hobby Harbor

Check out that hemline! Bonus? She wrote a tutorial on how she made this hemline so anyone can make it! Her tutorial can be found at this link on her blog.

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal

Here is another version made out of a ponte. If using a ponte, make sure you definitely size up as this pattern is made to be used with stretchy jerseys. A ponte has minimal stretch and can be used, I just want to warn that you should take the lack of stretch into account when choosing which size to make. This version has such contrasting fabrics that it really stands out. She added some length to the hemline so that she could wear it to work. Doesn’t it look fabulous?

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal

This beautiful Gunmetal was made by Kate who blogs over at Sewing for Sanity. To see her blog post on her this Gunmetal, click here. I love this version so much because it uses neutral fabrics. I use such bright and crazy contrasting colors all the time, I never think about neutrals other than black and white. This version really opened up my eyes as it looks gorgeous in this neutral. I may or may not have picked up some neutral colored fabrics for another Gunmetal for myself….

I hope these few versions have helped show you all the different ways this pattern can be used. In addition, there have been some great versions out there by The Seeds of 3, Seamstress Erin, and Mouse in My Pocket. Have you seen them?  Their versions are also beautiful and really made to work with their own personal style. Definitely check out their posts because they are also hosting giveaways of Gunmetal! You can win a copy of your very own so click over to their site and enter!

Stick around because there may be more giveaways to announce and more Gunmetals to see…..

If you want your own version of Gunmetal, you can grab it in the shop! Make sure to use code gun15metal to get 15% off the physical pattern and the physical pattern + d-rings until the end of November 27th!

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Nov 182013
 

Today is Gunmetal’s release into the world!!! Gunmetal is my personal favorite pattern and has been in my wardrobe for years.

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal

Gunmetal #4013 Line Drawing

Gunmetal Envelope Front

Gunmetal is an edgy dress and blouse with figure flattering ruching and ruffled trim. Made completely out of stretch fabrics, it is surprisingly comfortable while being flirty and fun. This pattern can be used with a variety of unique sheers and laces as the overlay resulting in fun color combinations. View A has contrasting panels with matching ruffles, sheer sleeves, and buttons down the center front. A softly draping circle skirt finishes the bottom of the dress an inch above the knee. View B has a gothic lolita vibe and features ready-to-wear hardware details and faux corset accents. The blouse has a fashionable peplum that finishes at the high hip and the sleeves are finished with clear elastic in the hem.

Lolita Patterns | Purple Lace Gunmetal

You can tell how much I am obsessed with it by seeing how often I used it. I wore a Gunmetal for my engagement pictures, for my rehearsal dinner, and even had all my bridesmaids wear Gunmetal for my wedding! All my personal versions were made with view B, but many made in dress form or with view A sleeves. I made the samples in view A so you will get to see all kinds of versions. In addition, the testers and promoters went wild with all kinds of mish-mashes between the views and they all look gorgeous!

Lolita Patterns | Purple Lace Gunmetal

I’m showing you a few different versions in this post but I will be going into detail on each one in future posts so you can see what I did differently on each one. In addition, I’ll be showing testers versions so you all can see how different it can look depending on what you leave out or add more of! Here is a closeup of the faux corseting so you can see it in detail. You can also see the ruched panels really well in this picture.

Lolita Patterns | White Lace Gunmetal

There are a few things I want to let you know about Gunmetal. It comes in both printed version and PDF (A4 compatible) as well as print shop versions (included in PDF)–which now work with A0 paper! (Thanks to Velosewer!) The printed version comes in the cute packaging you see here where the bow is actually the prong that attaches the packaging together. It is sturdy and gorgeous!

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal

View B of this pattern, the ones you see featured above, uses twenty 3/8″ D-rings. It is very hard to find D-rings this small so I sourced them and made them available for you at cost if you want them. I didn’t want the lack of small enough D-rings to keep anyone from getting their inner gothic lolita on!

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal

My black and purple “gothic” version complete with skull choker, earrings, and bracelet

You can buy this pattern with twenty D-rings included for only $2 extra dollars and no extra shipping. Or, if you already have the pattern and decide later to make view B, or want to make more than one view B, you can buy the D-rings separately for the same price with a small shipping fee.

Lolita Patterns | Black Gunmetal

Gunmetal’s instructions show you how to make this fully lined, however, if you want a lighter version, it is very simple to leave out the lining and neaten up your seams with serging or another seam finish. In fact, I only lined one of my versions! My insides aren’t drop dead gorgeous, but I still love the finished look.

The sew-along page has all the information you could possibly want to know about Gunmetal including finished garment measurements, pictures, metric and imperial envelope backs and more! The sew-along won’t begin until the new year to give everyone time for loved ones and gift sewing for the holidays. The sew-along badges are already available in the side bar though so if you you love the pattern or think you might join us, grab the badge and show some love!

Lolita Patterns | Gunmetal Sew-Along Badge 200 x 200

What do you think? Still with me? If so, here comes the prize! The physical version of the pattern will be 15% off through November 27th, the day before US Thanksgiving. Both the individual pattern and the pattern that comes with the D-rings. Use code gun15metal to get 15% off your physical pattern!

Lastly, don’t forget about our themed giveaway! The Gunmetal giveaway will go live soon!

All versions are available in the shop.

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Nov 082013
 

Is there anything more fun than a sewing contest?? I can’t think of much!  I wanted to have a great way for you to show off your finished Sugar Plums either from the sew-along or from your own sewing. Therefore, I want to announce….

Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Contest

Did you participate in the sew-along? Make a Sugar Plum on your own? We want to see! Post picture(s) of your Sugar Plum in the Lolita Patterns Flickr Group and make sure you tag it “Sugar Plum”. Make sure you post your pictures by Monday, December 2nd by midnight, Pacific Time Zone.

If you still need to grab your pattern, it is available here in the shop.

Sugar Plum Sew-Along Badge: 200 x 200

Didn’t have time to follow the sew-along? Don’t stress! We have compiled all of the sew-along posts and all the information you could ever want on Sugar Plum on the sew-along page.

These will be reader voted so anyone can win! On December 3rd, we will post a roundup of all the submissions and begin voting.

What is the prize you ask?  Two future Lolita Patterns and a special bonus prize!  I am intending to pick up something special while in London for the winner…I don’t know what it is yet but it will be fantastic!

You can choose any two future patterns you like but I have to warn you, two more patterns will be out by the end of the year and they are incredible!  The tester versions have been gorgeous, I can’t wait for you to see them!

So let’s get started! Post your Sugar Plum photos in the Flickr group by December 2nd!

Good luck!

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Sugar Plum Sew-Along #7: Sleeves, waistband finishing, hook & eye, buttons and hemming

 Sew-Along  Comments Off on Sugar Plum Sew-Along #7: Sleeves, waistband finishing, hook & eye, buttons and hemming
Nov 062013
 

Today we’ll be finishing up our Sugar Plums by setting the sleeves, attaching the buttons and hemming the skirt. We’re so close!

Sleeves

Place your sleeves, fashion and lining together for both sides, together, and stitch across the bottom of the sleeve.

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Turn your seam allowance toward the lining and press. Stitch at about 1/8″ to the seam, on the lining side. This will ensure that your lining doesn’t roll toward the outside of your sleeve and show while you’re wearing your Sugar Plum.

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Put wrong sides together and press. Then, stitch at the gathering markings at the end of your sleeves with long stitches so you can gather them. Pull the long tails you’ve left. Secure them on the wrong side of your sleeve. You can also leave your sleeves without this gather. Both ways look quite nice.

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Stitch at the underarm seam.

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Turn your sleeve right sides out and press. The underarm seam will be completely enclosed.

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At this point, and to make sure your sleeve and lining are lined up and ready to set in, you can baste the fashion and lining together. You can also opt to serge your sleeve now although you can also serge/finish it after your sleeve is set.

Baste the fashion and lining fabrics together with a long stitch. I like to do two rows of basting stitches. I find I get a more balanced gather that way. Gather cap sleeve between notches B and H.

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 Matching notches, pin your sleeve to your bodice with right sides together. (I wanted to add a couple more pictures so I made up a muslin to illustrate setting the sleeve.) Even out your gathers. 

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Stitch around your sleeve and take out your basting stitches.

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Finish your sleeve seam with a serger, zig zag, pinking shears or binding. Press the finished seam allowance toward the sleeve.

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Press from the right side careful not to crush your gathers.

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Waistband finishing

With your dress wrong side out, fold under the raw edge of the waistband at 1/4″ and pin in place. Turn your dress right side out and edgestitch at the top and bottom edge of the waistband, removing the pins as you go. Make sure your edge-stitching catches the inner waistband.

In the case of my leopard print Sugar Plum, I stitched on the inside waistband …

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…and on the right side I got an invisible stitch in the ditch. Either over both layers of the waistband or in the ditch work.

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Hook & Eye/Buttons

Attach hook and eye above zipper.

Sew on buttons.

Hemming

Fold your skirt hem under 1 1/4″. I like to mark it on my fabric so that it’s even all the way around. If you’re new to doing a blind hem or would like a refresher, check out our tutorial.

Below you can barely see my blind hem stitching from the right side. I’m pointing out one of the more noticeable stitches.

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Congratulations! Your Sugar Plum is done! No hand stitching and an all enclosed bodice.

We’d love to see your finished dress. Head on over to Flickr or Facebook and post pictures proudly!

leila signature

Sugar Plum Giveaway Winner

 General, Pattern  Comments Off on Sugar Plum Giveaway Winner
Nov 062013
 

In the midst of all the business of getting new patterns to print and doing the Sugar Plum sew-along, I completely forgot to post about the winner of the Sugar Plum giveaway!

As a reminder, here is the prize: Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Giveaway

I put all the names into a spreadsheet to account for all the people who earned more than one entry. Then I used random generator to pull a number and the winner is: Lolita Patterns | Sugar Plum Giveaway

 

Simona!

The crazy thing is I will actually be meeting up with her when I go to London next week!  How crazy is that??  I can see first hand how much she likes her new goodies! I also added in a few other Sugar Plum colored goodies I have found since the giveaway went live. Thank you all for entering and stay tuned for the next themed giveaway! It is not too far off now….pattern is at the printer as we speak!

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Nov 042013
 

We only have one more sew-along post, after this one, we’re all done. Today we’ll be applying the zipper, sewing the lining and the neck seam. Let’s get started

Zipper

If you haven’t done so already, fuse a strip of interfacing or stay tape to the center back edges for the zipper. Applying interfacing helps stabilize the area so you don’t have any puckering.

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Turn the dress right sides out. Use your invisible zipper foot to attach your zipper to your fashion fabric only. Unroll the coil as the zipper and fabric feed through your sewing machine. For more details on inserting an invisible zipper, visit our tutorial. You can always baste your zipper in first. I tend to baste the second side since that’s the one that has to line up with the first. Remember that pulling out basting stitches takes less time than pulling out a smaller stitch. Baste first if you’re aiming for perfection. To get a perfectly lined up waistband (below in the leopard print dress) I basted the second side and had to redo it. It doesn’t take that much time to redo it and you’ll be happier with the results.

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Sewing your lining

Turn your dress inside out and sew up the center back seam from the hem to the end of the zipper stitching. Next, fold up the bottom of the inner waistband (pictured below, left) and placing bodice and waistband right sides together, sew lining along edge of zipper with your zipper foot. This will enclose your zipper, giving you a clean inside to your dress without any hand-stitching.

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Neck Seam

Pin your neck seam, right sides together, making sure your neck ruffle doesn’t get caught in your stitching. Turn your zipper toward the neck edge so that when you turn your bodice right side out, it will lay flat.

Repeat for the other side of your bodice.

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Turn your bodice right sides out.

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Your bodice is now fully lined and enclosed! Congratulations.

Next up will be the sleeves. Again, leave any questions or concerns you may have in the comments. Amity and I are checking as we want to make sure you have all the help you can get.

leila signature

Nov 032013
 

Lolita Patterns | Where to Buy

I’m so excited to let you all know about some new international vendors for Lolita Patterns. This means our international customers can save on shipping by purchasing their patterns from these vendors.

For our European customers, we have our patterns stocked at Santa Lucia Patterns. They are a German company and the owner will be translating the instructions into German for their customers! That is such a great service they are providing. Santa Lucia Patterns carries a lot of independent patterns so it is a great opportunity for those of you in Europe to stock up on your favorite indie patterns!

Our next vendor helps out our Australian customers! Sew Squirrel is stocking Lolita Patterns. This means that if you are in New Zealand or Australia, you can save on shipping costs and get your patterns there! Sew Squirrel also stocks a large variety of independent patterns to satisfy your fancy.

Thank you to both of these retailers for stocking great independent pattern companies!

amity bow | Lolita Patterns

Sugar Plum Sew-Along #5: Skirt, pockets, waistband and attaching bodice to skirt

 Sew-Along  Comments Off on Sugar Plum Sew-Along #5: Skirt, pockets, waistband and attaching bodice to skirt
Nov 022013
 

We’re about halfway done! How does it feel? I hope you’re all having as much fun as I am. As most of you know, it’s my first time running one of Lolita’s sew-alongs. I’d love to hear from you. Feel free to chime in down in the comments.

On we go to attach the skirt pieces and begin the process of attaching the skirt to the bodice.

If you missed a step or want to review any of the sew-along posts, you can find them all on the Sugar Plum Sew-Along page.

Skirt and pockets

Sew side front skirt to center front skirt (13 to 15) and side back to center back (14 to 16). You can topstitch your skirt panels either with a straight stitch or a stretch stitch. The stretch of the fabric won’t be affected by your topstitching. You can choose thread that matches or contrasts.

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Next, sew your pockets to the side front of your skirt with right sides together at 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat on the side back of the skirt. In the pictures, there is a white pocket lining. You can definitely do that, too. Attach the pocket linings to the front skirt pieces so they don’t show when wearing your Sugar Plum.

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Sew down side seams, around your pockets and down the rest of the side seam. It doesn’t matter which direction you go in. Just make sure you stitch both sides of your skirt in the same direction.

If you’re making the skirt with negative ease, you will want to leave off the pockets as they will gape. However, if you’re adding more wearing ease to your dress, your pockets will lay flat just fine.

Waistband and (optional) bias binding

Sew back of your waistband to the front waistband at the side seams for both the front and facing of the waistband. (Different fabric in these pictures, don’t be alarmed!)

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Take your bias binding that you’ve purchased or made at home and attach it to your waist band a little beyond 3/8″ from the top and bottom raw edges. When you stitch your waistband to the bodice and the skirt, your binding will be flush against the rest of your dress in a seamless fashion.

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Now you’re ready to attach your waistband to your skirt. Match up the bottom of the band to the top of the skirt, lining up the seams.  When I used a smaller size for my waistband, it still fit the skirt at one size up but just a little bit stretched. If you’re worried about the fabric bubbling you can baste it in place. At this point, you can also baste in your zipper to test the fit. Once you’re happy with the fit, take out the zipper and return to the waistband step by pressing your seams toward the waistband. Press your waistband up.

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Attach skirt to bodice

Sew right back bodice and right front bodice to the waistband. Make sure the bottom flounces are out of the way when doing this step.

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Backstitch at center front to secure stitching. Repeat for left back and front bodice. Make sure you don’t catch the lining or the shield. The image below shows the backstitched bodice. (different fabric again- these are of View B without the flounces)

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Fold bodice lining pieces over. Right sides of lining pieces should be facing you. Sew bodice piece with shield to the waistband facing, sandwiching it between the bodice fabric and the waistband facing. Stitch to the center front and backstitch to secure it.

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Inside of dress, with waistband facing pressed down.

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Tip: To make sure your shield will lay flat, you can flip the dress over and lay the pieces straight, pinch or pin, flip it over again and stitch in place.

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The stitched bodice (View A) from the right side. Lower flounces are left free.

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Inside lining and the stitched shield.

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From the outside of View A with flounces.

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We’re done for the day! Your bodice is attached and we’ll be ready to insert the zipper.

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